“Il Giornale” 30 August 2009 “
Tartare, fish stark Valeria Amaldi
A fresh and tasty dish that belies those who think that it’s just not cooked Japanese. Here are the tips of the chef’s “Mushroom” from Borgo Grappa to prepare him better.
Tasty, fresh, light: the hot days of September have the taste of raw tartare. Fish, though. “Stealing” inspiration to the traditional recipe of meat, more and more chefs capitolini that, to celebrate the summer – and the end – I propose greedy versions of the sea. Issues of fashion but above all taste, or tastes better, because it seems like the tartare right at all. To learn the secrets of the dish and its “charms”, we turned to the chef Michele Lombardi, owner of Mushroom (via the Sea 11412, Borgo Grappa – Latina; 07733208009): “In Italy, the raw is present in many regional cuisines. Today we tend to think it’s a trend that started with the arrival of Japanese food on our tables, but it is not. The flavors of Japanese have only helped to evolve the genre by introducing new combinations and seasonings. “To prepare a good tartare need to do a great expense, beginning with the choice of the fish. “The most popular is the tuna. The fish are fine white and blue, from the most noble and expensive for what it is not. Yes to swordfish, curl, strawberry, sea bass, sea bream and anchovy. Less suitable redfish, gurnard, turbot and sole, perfect stew instead. “How do you choose the fish? “It must be fresh: it must have bright colors and opaque, in addition to a very light scent of iodine. it is good to turn to trusted sellers. The eyes, in fact, can be deceiving. Unfortunately, often, sellers resort to a few tricks, such as conversation in ice, which can make it look like a fish fresher than it is. The risk is high, for the possible presence of Anisakis, bacteria, in particular in the blue fish, with the passage of time can proliferate in tissues. “Since conservation. “If you have not consumed immediately, it must be gutted and placed in a damp cloth in the bottom shelf of the fridge. If it’s great to be filleted, covered with plastic wrap and put in fridge. In any case, to eat it raw, you can store up to 12 hours. “Let’s move on to the preparation: First of all, the cut, “The fillets should be cut with a knife into small cubes, in order to make it easy to chew, but without giving the feeling of food that makes it unpleasant melted well as the presentation.” Then you think about the sauce. “Many use the lemon, which, however, being acid alters the flavor. You have to refer to the characteristics of the fish chosen. Over its flavor is decided, the more you can use bold approach. If it is mild, you should not use too many ingredients. The classic recipe is with fresh onion, also red, celery, diced tomatoes, basil, a pinch of fresh chilli, salt and pepper. You put it in the fridge a few minutes and serve with salad “.Avoid lack original ideas. “The tartare with apples and almonds, served with melon and pineapple, combines the flavors of the Mediterranean and oriental influences. That oily fish, such as cork, is very good with chives, salt, oil, pepper, and one of its panel buffalo ricotta. Mullet is with julienne of celery or fennel, put in ice water to make them crispy, with diced orange pulp and pitted black olives. “Commonly it is believed the tartare dish ‘luxury’, not within the reach of all budgets, but the variety of fish is reflected in the cost. “If you choose the noble ones, the cost is high, but you can go down easily, without sacrificing taste. The pompano, for example, younger sister of the curl, it tastes like but it costs less. A person must be calculated approximately eighty grams of fish. In mid wing recipe for four should be between five twelve euro. “All that remains is to choose the wine. “White with a decent aroma, from the classics of South Tyrol Riesling to the Model.” To expose and even ‘raw’, the true flavor of the sea.
“Il Piatto del Buon Ricordo News” July / August 2009
The summer is ending … Festeggiamola in Borgo Grappa in the ‘Mushroom’ Saturday, September 5 is the “soup”
Continue the magical summer of Good Memory in Lazio after the month of roses with “The Focarile» Aprilia and “The Trout” of Rivodutri, here is a new, secure success in “The Mushroom” of Borgo Grappa di Latina for Saturday, September 5 at lunch, about 12:45 pm. Yes, the summer is ending and with Michael and Michele we will celebrate with great joy and trying to put an angel in the sadness for the season that greets us. The small, elegant, beautiful and friendly local family run business we always propose as a professional kitchen and commitment of considerable thickness. Behind the kitchen and dining room in the young spouses Lombardi await us with their exquisite hospitality and prowess, class cuisine and the pleasure to meet.
“The Mushroom” starring the products of the territory of the Pontine Marshes, the garden and the sea, the best of what the fishermen bring every day to cook and what fresh and genuine offers on the market.
Brighten your day – we are sure – the “soup of fish daily,” specialty that will outline a menu from buonricordare.
Do not forget the natural beauty ranging from the enchanting National Park of Circeo to the romantic Lake Fogliano, the historic town of Sabaudia to the numerous villages, the endless dunes …
The fee, which also includes the Vietri ceramics of the restaurant, is set at € 50.00 per person and must be sent together with the reservation to the Trust zone Marcella Mice telephone 06 5400370 and 340.3038664, Viale Emperor Justinian, 57 – 00145 Roma – IBAN IT 04 W 01030 03215 000001036859 (Monte Paschi Siena).
For those who will plan a full weekend, not to mention the possible interesting stages “Good Memory” aad Aprilia (“The Focarile”) and Ferentino (‘Basset’).
“Latina Oggi” June 12, 2009
An evening dedicated to wines from across the Alps
The Mushroom “speaks” French
In France they call Terroir. A simple word, perhaps, that, among the experts, however, means that mixture of geographical and climatic features essential to the transalpine cousins to excel in the production of wine. And that allows him to invade with their own bottles from the famous Burgundy and Bordeaux but also from Alsace Old Europe and beyond. And in the French wine Funghetto Borgo Grappa last Friday has devoted an evening where the delicious dishes prepared for the occasion by Chef Michele Lombardi were accompanied by rivers of ‘Bacchus’ nectar’ of Champagne and Chablis. To orchestrate a true expert tasting of French wines, that Giulio Menegatti, also awarded the Legion d’Honneur by the French government for commercial success in the Italian market. Cos’ì Claude Champagne Grand Cru Blanc 1998 Casalz Millesimato matched a plate of oysters while the other starters a Chablis Alain Geofrroy 2007 and 2005 Chateau Simone Palette Rougier. The first dish, redfish spaghetti with herbs and pecorino romano, has instead seen pouring into the glasses of the various diners a white more than 15 years, the Roche aux moines 1994 Chenin Blanc. A red wine, the 2007 Domaine des Perdrix Pinot Noir, on the other hand watered the tasty fish soup. The closure was entrusted to a Grand Enclos 2005 Chateau de Cerons excellent in assisting the cake with pears and walnuts with goat cheese ice cream and chestnut honey. Now those wines remain there, to make it even more prestigious one of the most diverse wine cellars in the province of Latina.
“Rome’s” guide the choice 17-23 June 2009
Sheltered from the crowd, a great local flavors and costs for
The Mushroom flavored sea … Antonio Di Martino
And at some point in the day at the beach can take this too: after an overdose of people deshabillée, sand, salt, sunscreen, when deciding where to put – as they say – the legs under a table, you may want to have to withdraw for a moment from the madding crowd of the mad summer. Not so much by not knowing where you are. But enough to imagine being “too” elsewhere. And this place, “right” for various reasons, just set back from the frenzy and the boiling of the coast, is the ideal destination, if this is the intention. Consolidated into fame (positive, of course) for about a couple’s guide with a sure hand stove and dining, the Mushroom tip shrewdly on the quality of the products, but it takes then finish in his own way the proposal. Feel the full-bodied long pasta with squids, artichokes and pecorino; reward yourself with confidence (if you like) a nice soup scented with tradition; and do not miss the marriage of vegetable area (very popular, as everyone knows) and the Tyrrhenian fish, marked in fun combinations like the one between the aubergines, red snapper and potatoes. Ultraffidabili are also raw. And for all that you can fish the right wine from a winery that may even displace those who do not already know, since it is certainly not stingy with major labels, and that “widens” (showing clear inclination) on the sector bubbles, in particular those badged Champagne. Bread and pastries are homemade and are not bad.
Especially not the secondary, finally, the hand that draws the bill is as wise as the one that works with pans and fires.
“Slow Food – Terracina” November 29, 2007
Semel in anno: A.D. 1990 Borgo Grappa Ristorante Il Funghetto
Chestnut soup and broccoli tartare with tarragon bufaletta Sfogliatine squid with quail and pumpkin
Trenette flour and water with blue-veined cheese and chopped cocoa beans Spaghetti with cheese and pepper truffle of Sempreviva
Fan staked beef with eggplant parmigiana, sformatine tomato and onion sauce with cicerchie Composé leg of lamb with toasted flour and yellow morel mushrooms
Chocolate cake spiced Carenero
“Il Territorio” November 12, 2006
The college Cocorum Michele Lombardi chef and owner of the restaurant “The Mushroom” of Borgo Grappa received, last October, the prestigious award from the Federation of Italian Chefs
The prestige of the pontine gastronomy is growing, thanks to one of its most valuable, Michele Lombardi. The chef of Borgo Grappa, where he manages the Mushroom, successful restaurant ever increasing, last October, has received a prestigious award, the Board Cocorum, the Fic (Federation of Italian Chefs). The award ceremony was held in Sardinia, in the prestigious and luxurious Forte the Village of Santa Margherita di Pula, in the province of Cagliari, one of the largest resorts in Europe, with its 13 restaurants, 4 swimming pools and a huge garden, visit on board a small train. In this environment, fairytale, is the appointment the Federation of Italian chefs, to reward 85 of the best chefs of our country, as well as to discuss issues in the sector. Michele Lombardi scored the coveted medal for his work done, in more than 20 years, despite the still young age, in the kitchen of a high level, promoting the products of its territory. Another note of credit to the chef pontine, being one of the few young winners among the chosen ones. Its great quality in the kitchen have been reported, the National Federation of the Apel, the Association of chefs in the province of Latina. To emphasize the importance of the event, including the international character taken from the event, which was attended by 500 experts. Among them, many foreign delegations from various continents, led by the President of WACS (World Association Chefs Society), the World Association, the American Ferdinand Metz. Next meeting in 2008 in Dubai.
“Il Territorio” April 9, 2006
Verona, the appetizer of Michele
As part of the appointment international wine cook pontine, owner of the restaurant “The Mushroom” of Borgo Grappa, cooked a variety of gourmet hors d’oeuvres in the meeting that the Zenato winery has offered its guests
Today, at the Fiera di Verona, closes the 2006 edition of Vinitaly, one of the most important events dedicated to wine. As part of this exhibition, for the second year, there was also the Sol (International Exhibition), with the presence of the best producers. Present, with their wines and oils, also manufacturers pontine, more and more welcomed by the markets, both Italian and foreign.
To give additional luster to our area, we thought the young chef Michele Lombardi, owner of Mushroom Borgo Grappa, called a gastronomic event of prestige: the dinner hosted by the famous Veronese Zenato winery, famous for its exquisite Amarone, one of the best “red” Italian. At the banquet was attended by over one hundred guests, many from abroad. It was held last Friday at the headquarters of the company, in San Benedetto di Lugana (Verona). Michele Lombardi is dedicated to preparing appetizers, using only the typical products of the earth and of the sea pontine, as habitually uses in his restaurant.
An important opportunity to promote the goodness of our territory. So many tasty morsels have entertained the guests’ palate, pleasantly surprised by the variety of aromas and flavors, expertly paired with Michael. Served in the “sacred” place of barrels of Zenato, the Barriccaia, where it rests Amarone, one after the other: carpaccio di bufala; onion soup with swiss chard meatballs and cod; oysters in saffron jelly; morsel of cabbage with anchovies and pecorino; bean cream with roe of sea bass (who personally prepares) and mint, combined with the Lugana Brut, served in magnums. At the table, then, came the appetizer: pie redfish with escarole, tomatoes and lentils. In glasses of Lugana Massoni Vineyard 2005.
For the chef pontine it was a great recognition to its quality, more and more appreciated, even at the national level. Michele Lombardi is, in fact, was called to collaborate with two of the best known Italian chef Gennaro Esposito, Restaurant Torre del Saracino in Vico Equense (Naples), who prepared the first, Paccheri pasta with “scuncilli and limpets” combined with the Sergio Zenato Riserva Chardonnay 2003; Norbert Niderkofler, the Rosa Alpina Hotel Restaurant St. Hubertus in San Cassiano in Badia, who cooked the second fillet of venison with red onion compote and mashed celeriac. This dish was paired with Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2001 Both Esposito Niderkofler that are ranked among the top 10 Italian chefs. Finally Salvatore Campisi’s Restaurant Old Spinning Mill of Capri Leone (Messina) is dedicated to dessert, proposing the pie pistachios, combined with Rigoletto Passito di Lugana 2004 At the end of the evening the family Zenato intended to present the masters of kitchen for guests, enjoying culinary enthusiasts. A moment of great satisfaction for “our” Michele Lombardi.
“Il Territorio” April 23, 2006
Dishes soul by Mario Di Lembo
Michael is fond of redfish
I tasted my friend Michele Lombardi, the restaurant of The Mushroom Borgo Grappa, a chef who combines good tradition and modernity. Redfish, rockfish, has a tasty meat, ideal for soup. Michele proposes stew with lots of fruits and vegetables: beans, peas, artichokes into thin slices, potatoes, a few leaves of escarole, zucchini wild asparagus, a bit ‘of onion. They are put in a pan with redfish, the addition of a little oil and very little water to start cooking. Stews, short redfish and vegetables, so that the flavors and scents are based, and, when they arrive in the pot, are intoxicating. Michele, with this dish, recovered the tradition of home. He says, in fact, that his father cooked the ‘Iotta, so called Minto soup vegetables sun, of course fruits, accompanied with a slice of homemade bread and dressed with good olive oil. The innovation lies in combining the fish, of which Michele knows quality and flavors, with seasonal vegetables. Gives us, as well, a traditional peasant dish, refurbished, original, stylish, and for the combination of flavors that way it is served on the table. it was a surprise to find all these vegetables, a real plate of the soul, where every ingredient is born in our land, the fish is caught locally. Moreover, it is known that Michele Lombardi uses for its cuisine, local produce of the highest quality. I accompanied this dish simple and elegant at the same time, with a vineyard Soave Monte Grande Pra company, a white featuring delicate aromas and acidity.
“Il Messaggero” October 25, 2005
Matters of taste especially fish ravioli with shrimp and noodles with “leaking” of anchovies James A. Dente
Difficult to speak of the local cuisine of Latin America. First, because, despite the presence of many high quality products, catering still seems to live on the laurels of a routine quiet and smooth or emotions. Secondly, because you have not yet created a center of tourist attraction breath greedy peer-worldly places like the Circeo and Sabaudia. Yet, along the line of tradition, you can find repertoires of great interest, of a happy hybridisation between the flavors of the fish “Roman school” and scents of root Bourbon, interesting variations in the theme of “country”, along with memories and suggestions resulting from ‘wave of migration from the Veneto area at the time of massive immigration linked to the reclamation of the Pontine Marshes.
With these premises deserves encouragement in every aspect of the kitchen and Michele Michela Lombardi, a true act of loving devotion to the cleaning of flavors, recipes intelligence, attention in selecting the best raw material. The result is of great frankness formal architecture of the dishes is flawless, the recipes are inspired by an idea enjoyable freshness. And, not least, the hand of the chef manages to keep alive the primacy of the flavor, without being drawn into temptation by the sirens of a deplorable fashion lightness at all costs. The paper is varied and enjoyable all the proposals. Excellent ravioli with shrimp and pesto, inviting the pasta with squid and artichokes whipped by a blow wise pecorino, ancient wisdom of the past beans with vegetables. Within seconds the freshness of the fish is strong echoes in the solid execution of shrimp with lard, or in mullet with anchovy, but also in the leg buffalo treated with herbs as a “gigot” lamb of beautiful French school. Convince even the desserts, many of which are interpreted with the help of the seductive buffalo ricotta. In short, a positive experience at 360 degrees, even for the kindness of the service and the pleasant surprises of the wine list. All right, then, but it could have been even better if the culture of the “pot espresso” not penalizing sometimes the time of service.
“Gambero Rosso” May 2005
The Restaurants by Clara Bar
Credited with two forks and with a score of 80
The Restaurant. The Mushroom was founded in 1973, strongly desired by Nunzio dad dealing with tissues that often went in Piedmont, and had been in contact with a food court at that of Latin America, just did not exist. “The menu was simple: grilled meat, sausages, wine, Piedmont … was a success – says Michael Lombardi, the son of Nunzio, chef and owner with his wife Michela of the local. Then a period of decline, takeover, and in 1997 the turning point for the work of Michael, who in the meantime had made the hotel school, a significant internship Sergio Mei. “At that point we decided to dedicate time to this activity, with passion and above all with love – says Michele – This place has become our home, we try to accommodate customers well and make them taste simple cuisine, made up of many products quality of the area, from the fish to the excellent vegetables. “
The kitchen. Bruschetta with chicory, beans and squid; spaghetti with fresh anchovies, zucchini flowers and pecorino; candles wrapped with squids, artichokes and pecorino romano; red prawns with broccoli Anzio; millefeuille of turbot with potatoes and artichokes; celery sorbet; dark chocolate cake with spiced vanilla ice cream and composed of oranges.
“Corriere del Sud” Lazio February 18, 2005
Michele Lombardi, chef for the love and tradition of Paul Pompili
Growing up among the scents of the kitchen and the noise of plates and glasses, you can either remain completely indifferent to food, almost nauseated, but be so fascinated by it become a fundamental reference of its existence. Michele Lombardi chose the second way, for reasons that go beyond what we might call “a living child.” First of all, let’s say that it believes Michael Lombardi is a chef emerging, with unanimous acclaim from industry experts, lives in Borgo Grappa where he runs with his wife Michela, the restaurant “The Mushroom”.
Without this clarification due to put a little ‘order in his life, as well as giving proper emphasis to the flavors (defined as feelings) to the dishes true (the events that have marked its growth). Michael, the youngest of three children, a boy he attended the Hotel School of Formia and Fiuggi, but not as a cook, but specializing in the service of a bar-room. “Even if – keen to point out – that was me, a refrigerator strictly always empty, preparing food for the four friends, all aspiring chefs with whom I shared the apartment.” His “desire for food”, they said, is by far his father Nunzio, in fact, since the 70s, ran a restaurant. “The Mushroom”, based on simple dishes such as penne with mutton, grilled meats, cold cuts and cheese quality. Dad Nunzio had realized that Michael had the quality and involved in management. Then, in the fall of 1990, either for fear that the boy might accept jobs that would take him away, and for a long time, and because he had taken over a bit ‘desire to move his hand, handed him the keys of the restaurant. “That was the first important moment – says Michele convinced – because, peering into the kitchen I learned many things: in fact I was a self-taught with great desire, but still many things to learn. So for a couple of years I’ve had a cook who was helping me and I’ll share between kitchen and dining room. “Then, in 1997, the second important moment: Michela comes into his life, a beautiful blond girl who worked in the nearby farm of his brother Michael. In a courtship, and the other, seasoned with sweet tasting, Michela it is still greedy, and other excuses always culinary, she decides to go to work with him to stay closer potergli. “This was the pivotal moment of my life. Together we have faced difficult times related to a number of factors all negative: the historic clientele My father was now thinned, I was looking for and I wanted to give a different slant to our dishes and make them become more and more fish, with recall, however, a precise and enhancement of local products. It was not easy – Michele admits – and many times looking out from the kitchen and seeing the empty room, I wondered if I had made the right choice, but we thought we had the determination and the right to go on, even to meet all the sacrifices made in the past from my family. Then, it was enough u compliment from customers, to make us forget everything, even the fact that for us to know we have worked for many years at ‘zero earnings, much effort’, but believing to the end of our work. “The third stage is the year 2001 and coincides with the presence, of course, with positive feedback, Michele on almost all the national food guides. For a restaurateur this is undoubtedly an important moment, the culmination of a whole series of sacrifices. Michael, whom he regards as his teacher Sergio Mei, is not jealous of his dishes is to open a restaurant, made up of trade considerations and recommendations. Join In fact, whenever he has the opportunity, to internships along with colleagues at the highest level: and even in these contexts, in his small, is able to provide information on specific products agro-pontine. But how does a dish? “For me, born from the daily shopping, from what my suppliers deliver it to me. I will say more: if you want to maximize the local products and the quality however, I consider them now, collaborators with which to confront opinions and practical advice. You never stop learning. “Although the winery has grown in quality and, on more than one occasion, the venue has hosted tastings level with products from different regions. The desserts, finally, are almost exclusively terrain Michela that with her smile and her sweetness is able to give a good shake to triglycerides. Somewhere between James and Nicholas, the two children born of their marriage, those who follow in the footsteps of the family. It will be seen; to conclude there will talk about candles wrapped with the squids, artichokes and pecorino cheese or onion soup with meatballs cod with beet greens and crusty bread or even squid and chicory with candied tomatoes and olives from Gaeta: in fact, why talk about it only when it you have the opportunity to taste them on the spot?
Borgo Grappa at the top of the cuisine of Lazio
Sunday, June 8, 2003, at the new headquarters of Slow Food in Rome, Via Ostiense, you tenut wing award ceremony of Slow Food Lazio, fourth edition. The jury, composed of Governors of the Association of Lazio and the Convivium Leader of Rome, was chaired by journalist Bruno Gambacorta, head of the television program Eat Parade Rai 2 The purpose of the award is to highlight the gastronomic activities (restaurants , taverns, wine bars, wineries, artisans and food outlets), particularly involved in the enhancement of local products. As far as the pontine, including restaurants, the award was presented to The mushroom Borgo Grappa “reads the motivation-for-like enthusiasm, skill and youth of Michael and Michela who have already made one of the best restaurants of New York. “Michele Lombardi, 35, is the chef and the creator of the dishes that proposes, from season to season, paying the utmost attention to research and quality of raw materials, the real strength of his kitchen. From appetizers to pasta and meat, anything that the menu offers daily, is prepared according to the dictates of express cooking. Customers Restaurant The Mushroom choose, mainly fish dishes, enticed by the “raw”, the fantastic seafood, from fresh products from the sea pontine. Even those who like to eat meat, however, has the opportunity to taste delicious dishes of the area. Michele, a great connoisseur of wines, is also a sommelier and offers its customers a wine list full of the best national and intrnazionali, “bubbles” included. High quality proposals spirits and coffee. Michela, 31, is concerned, however, to personally prepare the desserts, with the same care and the same attention to raw materials that are critical to the success of this restaurant. Top quality chocolate, mousses, parfaits, a true “festival” for the greedy. Always Michela, with her team, has the task of welcoming customers in the dining room or, in summer, in the cool of the garden. To return to the Slow Food Award, the voice acceditata in the field of food and wine not only Italian. The Restaurant The Mushroom is an example of the extraordinary potential of the pontine territory, with its wide assortment of high quality products. Desirable in the near future, greater promotion supported by regulatory authorities of the territory. M.D.L.